AIR BRAKES-REPLACING SPRING BRAKE CHAMBERS



Before Removal:
I usually clamp the pushrod with brakes applied using vise grips[middle picture] so the pushrod[operates the slack adjuster] stays fully extended outside the service brake chamber and out of the way[far right picture]I also use a schraeder fitting and air chuck to air the spring chamber to retract the spring brake push rod and install the caging bolt, instead of having to manually tighten the caging bolt. Once the spring brake is CAGED and lines removed the clamp on the service side chamber can be removed and replaced along with a new diaphragm. Perform a full application using a helper and check for leaks.
When To Replace Spring Brake Pots:
Besides the obvious failures like broken springs, diaphragms leaking and spring brake not holding, there are other things you should look for: If you pull the rear plug from the spring brake pot the caging orifice on the back of the spring [where the caging bolt fits into] should be centered in the pot, if it has kicked to the side then replacement is recommended. Our shop usually change spring brake pots every 5 years as a preventive maintenance measure.
Operators are trained to perform a Tug Test: Springs on, transmission in gear, hit the throttle really quick[on and off/1000 rpm] to test the spring brake hold back. Of course the brake adjustment is relative to spring brake performance.